Travel Series

Bordeaux

April 1, 2021

After my cousin’s wedding in Lanouaille in the middle of June of 2019 (also the last international travel I had before the pandemic), France, my family and I drove to Bordeaux to catch a bus for San Sebastian.

We had half a day to spare before our schedule bus, so we briefly explored the infamous French city. After a few hours of driving, we arrived in the city around 10 in the morning. We just spent a few days in the country regions of Southern France, so we wanted to have a more modern dine-in lunch before heading to Spain. However, 10am was a bit too early for restaurants to be opened, so we walked through the narrow, busy streets, soaked in the old city charms and the clumsily tripped around on the uneven cobblestone pedestrian paths.

When noon came, we went to Hâ Restaurant (listed on the Michelin Guide but now closed as the founder-chef Grégoire Rousseau has moved on to what seems like his next passion project which you can read about here) for lunch. I found it by simply googling gluten-free restaurants nearby. I didn’t make a reservation prior to our arrival, but it was not a problem as we were the first diners to arrive. This establishment operates on tasting menu, so we had no idea what we were getting. We opted out of the menu with wine since being in a bus ride for hours while tipsy is not exactly a clever move. I informed the chef about our respective food allergies, which was not a problem at all. Shortly after that, the chef brought out a freshly baked baguette in a towel for the table and said I cannot have that. As anyone with food-allergies or dietary restrictions, this is something we experience all that time, and it’s not unusual at all. I was so excited for my family to experience their first baguette in France.

The 4-Course Lunch

The first item, which was the pre-course, was a creamy chickpea puree. In the regular version, it was piped into the shape little chickpeas! For the gluten-free version, it’s a blob, which I assumed was for visual differentiation. I always appreciate when the cooks alter the plating for gluten-free (or any dishes with alterations) dishes. It makes me feel more assured when I see a visual cue since it signifies, to me at least, that they took the extra care with my restrictions. The cute little bite was tasty and light, helping us kickstart our palettes.

The appetizer course was goat cheese with sweet and tart rhubarb. By then, my family already finished their first baguette. The chef brought out a second for them, and also, to my pleasant surprise, a small plate with a gluten-free bun for me! I was emoji crying in happy tears! So happy, I completely forgot the take a photo of it… sadly, this is the first of two times I forgot to feed my phone first during this meal… But trust me, it was so delicious, no doubt it was baked fresh to order.

Our second course was a lovely fish dish. Lo and behold, I did not feed the best course of the entire meal to my phone. Neither did any of my family members. I will have to  savour the memory of having one of the best fish dishes ever at this restaurant in my head. Moving on….

The third course, and the last course before dessert, was a meat dish, a soft and tender pork with a spiced sauce, paired with veggies. It reminded me of roasted pork with five-spiced, sort of like Char Siu when much more refined in flavours.

 
For the final course, our dessert was a chilled fennel jelly topped with frozen yogurt, fresh strawberries and herb. Refreshing and light, the perfect finish after a generous amount of food. 
As we left, the restaurant was almost filled up with what seemed like groups of colleagues having lunch (it was a Friday.) 
My First French Cannelés

We had a couple more hours to spare before we had to return or car rental and board our schedules bus (which later we thought we missed because it came almost an hour late) to San Sebastian. We explored the city a bit more on foot, and perhaps proceeded with the most exciting itinerary on our list – well for me and my sister anyway – Auguste K., a French bakery specialized in cannelés with a modern twist. This was the only bakery I knew of that made gluten-free cannelés in the Southern region of France. As I write this blog post, I found out that they are now permanently closed since sometime in 2020. One can only assume it’s due to the pandemic. They created both gluten and non-gluten versions, though there was only one flavour (classic) for the gluten-free ones, which was a far cry from the wide-range of flavour selections for the gluten versions. I got a box of six, chewy but soft, custard-like little pastries to conclude our final moments in France.

Aside from my cousin’s wedding reception and the wine-tasting sessions we did in Saint Emillion, Bordeaux was definitely one of the highlights during our time in France. I would love to return in the future for more culinary experiences in this French city.